Saturday, December 5, 2009

Too Much Fun

Well, the trip back home was a blast of swell-tastic fun and frolicking in some great conditions for the NORCAL homebreaks. There were a few days of triple-overhead slop and no-go situations, but I can't complain. I got to surf with my buds and had my fair share of nice rides, though I did bomb it on a day when I should of brought a different board. Yet, despite this I still got a sense of what I was missing, stuck up here in Alaska.

The pics below are from my first day back in the water, though not where I eventually went in with my best bud. We had both been out of the water for several months, me in Alaska and him with a broken hand. We saw some really nice off-shore stuff that made us both drool, but not wishing to risk the problems of paddling against currents, we opted to take pics and watch with reverence before sulking down to an easier area to have fun (not as epic, but still fun).




After our little re introductory dip into the liquid playground, the skies cleared and the best day of the trip arrived. This time I was stoked and ready to have some fun. Despite the crowded line-up, I got my share and tore through some great rights. The next two days proved to be the best of the trip and simply whetted my appetite for more...as you SOCAL surfers can see in the next batch of pics! :-)



Anyways, the trip closed-out with the largest swells that I have ever seen charge through the homebreak. No one ventured out except some brave dude in a kayak...though we all watched from the over-look as he dodged tripled-overhead sets and road the foam to glory.

Now I'm back in the winter wonderland of the frozen North, wishing I was back home and surfing as much as my body will allow while experiencing that rush of adrenaline and fear as I rocket down the face of a 10' monster of numbing cold H2O! But, I'm patient...I can wait another 4 months. I have a plan and I need to see it through. After all, the ocean is not going anywhere. :-)

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