It has finally arrived...been a long time since I had a ear-to-ear grin on me face following a great sesh in the water. 5-6 feet bliss this dawn patrol day and me flying down and carving on my new 10'6" Bob Howard log. Everything feels great with the pulled 50/50 rails grabbing into the wave face with crazy-glue-like efficiency. It's time to HANG-TEN baby!
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A wave like that would keep many of the folks in L.A. County out of the water, but not enough of them to keep it from being crowded.
ReplyDeleteDid you surf that? You scored!
I have surfed that...this video was shot on another day, apparently in the early evening low tide, which I usually avoid because of the crowds. Dawn patrol is my modus operandi for this spot.
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