Had to wait 4 months, but am finally getting the chance to return home to my beloved NORCAL and the awesome surf that awaits my arrival. However, it's just my luck that a major 1-2 punch of a swell is supposed to deposit itself for the first half of my vacation, with the typical 15-20 foot walls of brain chilling numbness that makes surfing here so much fun! I'm thinking my 10' 6" green gun will suffice.Will probably have to opt for the more secluded spots like Stinky's and South Beach, but FUCK-IT...at least I'll be in surf that takes me only between 10 min to 1 1/2 hrs to get to...BY CAR!
Will be sure to takes lots of pics for posting and stoking the fire in me gut to get the hell out of the frozen tundra upon my 1 year anniversary of my exile.Too bad I'm not headed to SOCAL, where the monster swell of winters passion seems a bit less angry and blown! :-)
welcome home.... ;-)
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