This is a clip from a new documentary that tells the tale of how much surfing means to those of us that have to leave it for awhile, and the longing we all have to return to the stoke.
Moreover, it represents that intuitive connection to a lifestyle choice that can quickly become something sacred and spritual to those of us overcome by its allure and intoxicating beauty.
For surfing is indeed an escape from the mundane and chaotic reality that surrounds and engulfs our lives, whatever the environment we might be forced to reside within.
It provides, for those of us that continually seek it, a satisfying remedy for all of our pyschic wounds and mental frustrations, quieting the chaos within while enriching the mundane outside.
Though I am a veteran of the first Gulf War, and though I was not surfing back then, I can still relate to the experiences felt by my fellow veterans, having exiled myself to the frozen north for a year of disenchanted chaos and mundane reality! :-)
I can especially relate to the the last quote given on the clip!
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