surf Sessions #55 & #56

Surf Session #55:

Went out to surf some of the remaining big swell/long interval fun that rolled through this past week.

Took out my friends 10'6" Velzy special computer pop-out: no rocker and flat as a pancake, but a very easy paddle and wave catcher.

Upon unwrapping it, I noticed that the leash, included with the board, had broken and was repaired by jerry-rigging the cuff back onto the leash via some string and a knot. Now, the repair was fairly decent, and would have not been a concern...that is, if the waves had not been 10 foot+.

I decided to have a go despite the size, constantly reminding myself to be sure that I do NOT ditch the board. Of course, as soon as I get outside, a rogue wave decides to unleash its fury upon me…and the leash. I simply turned the board towards shore and road a wall of whitewater until I was back ashore. This got me frustrated and stubborn as I vowed to at least catch one before I gave up, so ventured outside again.

I was rewarded: Caught two very nicely steep drops before realizing that the friends board was attempting to buck me off the wave, as it lurched upwards every time it hit a bump on the face!

So much for paddling ability...gets the job done in catching them, but fails when it comes to riding them.

Anyways, figured I just needed more water-time to dial the board in...and a new leash!

No pics from the session due to fog.

Surf Session #56:

Drove on up to the secret spot and found a nice 3 to 4 foot long interval bunch of liquid loops to play on.

Had the friends board again, and still had to make adjustments on my trim and turns, seeing that the board is really just a heavy-duty ironing board!

Caught some really nice rides and chatted up a SUPper, friendly and all...still don't like'em but when it's just the 2 of you out in very nice conditions, who cares...especially when their willing to share.

The pics of the SUP is a different one than I met but at same spot. All of the other pics are from the spot that the shortboarder got bumped by Mr. Sharky...guess it's just too good for em. ;-)