Surf Session #57

Back out to the secret spot, and boy oh boy...big and long with lots of fun shoulders, both left and right, to play upon.

The swell bumped up a bit from the previous day's session (#56) to around 6', but the interval remained the same (10 sec), producing over-head conditions that were a bitch if you were in the wrong spot, but GLORIOUS if you managed to insert yourself into one of them.

Just myself and one other guy out to begin with...this is the spot where I almost got my truck stuck because you can drive up onto the beach and park, which I did, but not before driving down a bit to check out some other surging beach breaks.

As I turned around to head back, a beautifully looking wall of green energy rose on the outside...not too far from the actual "take-off" zone for the secret spot...and so, Mother Ocean pointed the way.

Parked the truck and quickly suited up...had my Harbor 10'6" cheater stick this day, having decided to forgo the friend's Velzy with no rocker because of its disappointing performance from the previous day's session.

The first wave I got into, was the second wave of the set, having failed on the first one because my position was too far outside...I was playing it safe, having previously seen a rogue set break on top of the other surfer, who was too far inside. The wave unfolded beautifully into a lovely left that I had to share with the other surfer, who seemed friendly, but was a bit of a wave hog.

Now, I have no problems with sharing a wave with someone, especially if they know how to surf. But this guy took it to extremes by paddling for everything, even after just getting back out following a ride. I dismissed his antics, as I felt it really did not matter that much on a day like today, but as the spot got more crowded, wave sharing became problematic given the conditions.

One last note on this guy: Later in the session, he tried to paddle into a wave that I was already up and riding. Seeing what he was attempting, I immediately turned my board to cut-off his drop. But the fool did not take the hint, as he stood up and narrowly missed my board before I quickly turned my board back around and rode out the ride. No words exchanged, just a subtle note to him that I knew what I was doing out there…thanks to my experiences of surfing the ‘Bu when I lived in SOCAL.

Anyways, after dialing it in...using both my watch (to time the big set waves) and the land based icons for position...I dominated the outside and caught many fun rides of steep drops and open shoulders (lefts and rights). Got accolades from the assembled crowd, which grew thicker as time went by, for my ability to get the big board to stick when dropping in and down the face of these deep water skyscrapers of sheer power and fun.

Ended the session in the right way...caught a big one and rode it all the way in.

All pics are from this day...though later, after I got out.