Friday's non-session that turned into a photographic document of the Boss who surfs only frustrated my inability to get some serious water time since the beginning of the year.
NORCAL winters always bring huge ground swells out of the NW...which makes surfing up here pretty fun and dangerous, but inconsistent because of the size.
Since I've already had my fair share of 10' survival-mode winter sessions, nowadays I tend to look for the lulls in between the storms. With the weekend full of commitments and large swell sizes...Monday's inviting 4' @ 12 secs conditions had me antsy to leave work and get my ass into some nice chest-high sets at the secret spot.
Of course, being that my session would be in the afternoon, the crowd factor was going to be a problem...me no-likey the crowds, but when starved for stoke, crowds will not deter me.
Lucky for me, the crowd factor was not as bad as I thought it would be...however, the strong outgoing current was problematic in my ability to keep me in the "pocket" of the peak, with much paddling required on my part.
Caught some nice rides while enjoying the unseasonably warm weather and clear skies.
Here be the pics:
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