Surfed in some small conditions for two days in row, having had a cortisone shot into the impinged shoulder and feeling friskier than I have been for the past year.
No. 9:
Surfed Dawn Patrol at the usual spot with the full Moon still up and staring down upon the frigidly cold but crisply clear morning. Nothing special to report on this session, as it was pretty empty of great rides.
Here b the pics:
No. 10:
Surfed first light at the secret spot with just myself for the first 30 minutes of tricky take-offs and long paddle back-outs.
The spot was working, given the small conditions, because of the long interval. However, the bar was being finicky in delivering long lefts or rights, so you had to insert yourself into the wave right at the peak or you'd eat it when the section closed-out.
One wave that stands out is a right that I caught in the sweet spot and got myself a cheater head dip under the lip, thanks to the off-shore blowing it back for me.
Here b the pics:
LOOKS LIKE YOU HAD FUN! LOVE The picture with the moon. Sweet!
ReplyDeleteIsn't that cortisone magic? I had my shot a month ago and my shoulder is pain free. I'm hoping for "the cure!"
ReplyDeleteYep...I wished I knew that it could work so well over 8 months ago!
DeleteK dude, I don't get it? You dropped facebook because you didn't want everybody to know what you were up to, and here you are with followers on this?? You need to make up your freaken mind butthead.
ReplyDelete