It has been a very long...WAY TOO LONG...dry spell of non-stoke and loud grumblings from myself at my own inability to get my ass out there, while Mother Ocean kept me out of the realm of stoke with her own tumultuous displays of 15+ foot swells!
When I finally saw that the forecast was calling for some decent swell, intermixed with some really nice weather...I knew it was time to MAKE MY MOVE!
Decided to hit it early, Dawn Patrol...cold as hell, but clean and crisp, with the water surprisingly warmer than the surface temp (50 degrees | 41 degrees).
I never wear gloves, as I need to feel the touch of Mother Ocean's flesh upon my bare skin...it's how I stay connected to her as I attempt to ride her occasional outbursts of liquid energy. So, my hands were pretty cold and numb, but the rest of me was well insulated and filled with STOKE!
Caught some nice rights and had a good short session for having been out of the water for the past 3 weeks...will be returning to the realm of stoke tomorrow (Saturday) for more fun.
Here b da pics:
Wondered where you have been! Welcome back..and very nice write up!
ReplyDeleteThank you Surfy Grams! :-)
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