Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Just Breathe

No, this is not an anatomy lesson...nor is it a a metaphor for living, though the lessons learned can be applied to one's own life, but hopefully without all of the sickly fuss that has surrounded my own.

I have not surfed since my horrible last session in which Mother Ocean bitch-slapped me while I struggled to merely survive the ordeal. Then she embarrassed me by making me watch while she welcomed other surfers into her realm, not with open arms but with a certain respect for their own dynamic skills and stronger stamina...I was devastated and humbled. 

Since my injury of this past summer, something has been amiss...it started slowly with a growing unease within me that eventually manifested itself within the form of chronic fatigue and shortness of breath whenever actively engaged in the search for stoke.

Being the stubborn type, I simply discarded these symptoms as a temporary problem that would heal itself given time. It did not...it got worse, and so did my "ignorance is bliss" attitude towards it. In fact, the problem of breathing began to show up outside of the stoke-zone...as I found myself grasping for air after walking up a flight of stairs at work. However, I still ignored the signs.

It wasn't until my last surf session that I knew I needed to seek medical attention, which I did following the Thanksgiving break. 

Bronchitis or Walking Pneumonia, take your pick...though I didn't have all of the symptoms, and still felt somewhat OK, my body said otherwise and so did the VA doc. He set me up with some antibiotics, which I will finished this week. However, he also let me know that if the shortness of breath and fatigue still persist, an X-ray and blood tests will needed to see if there's something more going on...scary stuff but I can handle it.

As of today, I'm feeling better, but not 100%...and though the ocean has been a monster of late, I'm missing my special connection with her, jonesing for that stoke. 

Getting old has its consequences...longer periods of healing being one. Anyways, just like the ocean...I'm not going anywhere, and I will ride the stoke machine again. 

That is all.

2 comments:

  1. Been there too sweety!! We may be getting older.. But at least we are still doing it.., maybe not as much or as good as prior... And we get slowed down by ailments we would not have in our youth ....but we are doing it.. That's all that matters..:-)
    Rest.. As you always tell me... Mother Ocean will still be there waiting ...

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hmmmm very familar sound to it. I had the living shit kicked outta me and Im back in, you will be too.
    A heated swimming pool , goggles, snorkle and a pull bouy between yer legs will get ya back in shape....
    Mother is so patient... and waves are in endless supply for those who seek
    surf on brother

    ReplyDelete