Secret Spot no fun, in crazy fast interval mess…spent the
full hour spinning my wheels, flailing my arms in search of stoke. Finally
found one wave that I promptly rode all the way in before calling it.
No. 69:
More foolish idiocy at the Secret Spot, with a 3’ @ 20
second interval…survival mode in the extreme and me making it look too hard and
getting smacked around by Mother Ocean. This session was probably the WORST
session I have ever had in NORCAL.
All of the pics are from No. 69 and display a far better
breed of surfers this day than I:
stoke would not be stoke if it was 100% guarantee. We need those bad days to enjoy the stoke
ReplyDeleteOh yeah... We all have been there... Madifficult different levels ... But it really makes us appreciate the better days that much more!!
ReplyDelete