Finally got some good surf this am...had meself some overhead drops and rights to play on. Not too crowded and plenty of swell for everyone. Noticed that my paddling suffers more when I'm not allowed to surf for a week because of the wonderfully bad conditions that we get up here...will be going out again for sure.
On a side note: found out after my sesh that the beach, South of where we surfed, was closed due to fecal contamination (has a river that runs through it to the ocean)...strange for us up here, seeing that that kind of event is usually associated with the pleasures of surfing in SOCAL.
On a side note: found out after my sesh that the beach, South of where we surfed, was closed due to fecal contamination (has a river that runs through it to the ocean)...strange for us up here, seeing that that kind of event is usually associated with the pleasures of surfing in SOCAL.
The pollution's not that bad down here. Well, there was that time I got herpes after surfing too near a storm drain, but that was a fluke.
ReplyDeleteIt's not that good down here either. Malibu is a beautiful and dirty wave. The pollution is one reason why I don't surf there more often.
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