Regarding the end of the relationship: I'm getting old...47 this year...and I had pretty much given up on finding someone in whom I could hopefully form a life-long and loving partnership with...but then Kelly came into my life and things, for a while there, seemed to turn from pessimistic to optimistic, as we seemed to be moving in a direction that would make us a permanent entity of two...together/forever. However, life is really never that easy, as there always seems to be something that trips you up when you least expect it. Anyways, not to poke at the still fresh wound of my heart, let's just say that she initiated a break that has devastated me emotionally. I'm just beginning the healing process and surfing is one of my principal activities that keeps me sane these days. I know some of you can relate to this...no matter how busy our lives become, the water and the stoke seem to keep us solid and focused.
Despite these changes, both positive and negative, I was able to get my ass back out in the water after neglecting the stoke for the past month.
Surf Session #2
Surfed a nice beach break called "Power Poles", though I should of opted for "Middles" because it was roaring! However, I'm not fascinated by concept of struggling for survival while out there so I stayed at the "kiddie pool" for my first session back after over a month. It felt good...caught a nice Left overhead for the first wave and then proceeded to mis-judge everything else coming through. Though it was a brief session (about an hour), it felt good to be back in the hunt.
Surf Session #3
Surfed my primary spot on a very nice and calm day...caught several 5-6 foot waves while enjoying the glassy conditions and warm weather. Stayed a bit too long in the water, as the wind came up and turned everything into a washing machine!
Well, that be about it...looking bad for any local paddle-outs this week and into the weekend...so I might venture a bit north of my usual breaks to catch some more stoke. Wish me luck!
Damn, man. That is brutal. I'm very sorry to hear about the break up. That's never an easy thing.
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