First session since the whole "Tsunami" thing...pretty weird how they shut everything down, expecting a wave like the one that tragically decimated the Japanese coastline. There was some damage, but nothing that compared to the horror experienced in Japan.
Yeah, made me start thinking about our own "tsunami-producing earthquake waiting to happen" scenario...the Cascadia fault. Supposedly, we're overdue. I have ensured that where I currently live is above the tsunami-zone and that I have an escape route if necessary...thank goodness for my 4X4!
Anyways, swell has been pretty large and unsurfable for over a week, so it was nice to get in. As you can see from the top pic, the surface was a mess with tons of wind-chop. But despite my anxiety and a bad wipe-out, I actually had a great time.
Concerning the wipe-out, early-on in the sesh, with the peaks all over the place, I timed one wrong and took the lip on my quickly submerging self. Drove me down to the bottom, 12 feet (estimate)...thank god for my "holding my breath" exercises in the gym pool. I was hesitant, but determined to give it another try.
Fortunately, there was a "safe spot" where I could stage myself while big rolling sets roared through the area. The area was perfect for nesting before launching myself out to catch the next set. Caught a couple of nice ones and soon regained my confidence.
Today saw a 20 second interval ground swell...wish I could of taken pics of that!
Yeah, made me start thinking about our own "tsunami-producing earthquake waiting to happen" scenario...the Cascadia fault. Supposedly, we're overdue. I have ensured that where I currently live is above the tsunami-zone and that I have an escape route if necessary...thank goodness for my 4X4!
Anyways, swell has been pretty large and unsurfable for over a week, so it was nice to get in. As you can see from the top pic, the surface was a mess with tons of wind-chop. But despite my anxiety and a bad wipe-out, I actually had a great time.
Concerning the wipe-out, early-on in the sesh, with the peaks all over the place, I timed one wrong and took the lip on my quickly submerging self. Drove me down to the bottom, 12 feet (estimate)...thank god for my "holding my breath" exercises in the gym pool. I was hesitant, but determined to give it another try.
Fortunately, there was a "safe spot" where I could stage myself while big rolling sets roared through the area. The area was perfect for nesting before launching myself out to catch the next set. Caught a couple of nice ones and soon regained my confidence.
Today saw a 20 second interval ground swell...wish I could of taken pics of that!
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