SURF SESSION # 8Decided, against my better judgment, to go out in big conditions (8-9') at the local break during the afternoon low. Really was sort of goaded into it by my new boss (yes, my boss at work surfs and lets me take off to surf the good stuff...just have to make up the hours later), who could not go at the earlier time that I had suggested. By the end of the rather disappointing session, I felt like the dude above...sometimes the ocean gets the better of us.
Anyways, crowded inconsistent slop (like surf session #7 without the crowds) that had me in and out of the water way too quickly because of the idiots in the surf. I was fortunate to catch 1 but on my second attempt, got caught too far inside and just wasn't feeling the positive vibe from the other surfers in the water...way too agro for the extreme conditions. No look take-offs get old pretty quickly when it appears that no one is really attempting to avoid hitting you. Nothing like the generosity of spirit and stoke felt at my last session. That's what happens whenever you try to surf later in the day. Better in the early, very early first-light of dawn patrol...which brings me to Surf Session #9
Anyways, crowded inconsistent slop (like surf session #7 without the crowds) that had me in and out of the water way too quickly because of the idiots in the surf. I was fortunate to catch 1 but on my second attempt, got caught too far inside and just wasn't feeling the positive vibe from the other surfers in the water...way too agro for the extreme conditions. No look take-offs get old pretty quickly when it appears that no one is really attempting to avoid hitting you. Nothing like the generosity of spirit and stoke felt at my last session. That's what happens whenever you try to surf later in the day. Better in the early, very early first-light of dawn patrol...which brings me to Surf Session #9
SURF SESSION # 9
Made the right call by being in the water by "first light"...just myself and one other guy exchanging 4-6' rollers with clean faces. Was very pleasant above the water, with the sun coming up over the mountains. However, with all of the wind of late, upwelling has mad the water, very very cold! Had to wear my hoodie most of the time, which is rare for me. Glad I had it though because got myself a nice lil "ice creme headache" on one occasion.
Caught my fair share of stoke-fueled fun that helped to make-up for the previous session's horrible experience...that's the way of the stoke: somedays you surf like a kook...on others like a GAWD!
Sorry, no pics...as my camera batteries took a dump. :-(
Caught my fair share of stoke-fueled fun that helped to make-up for the previous session's horrible experience...that's the way of the stoke: somedays you surf like a kook...on others like a GAWD!
Sorry, no pics...as my camera batteries took a dump. :-(
Was it Saturday the Negative vibe was happening??.. because it sure was at my Break that day! I have to admit I even entered the water on a sour note..I was hoping being in the water and getting a wave would nip it in the bud.. Seriously not a lot of nice guys out there and I came out even more angry.
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