Another great morning full of stoke and great NORCAL waves. Got myself in the water early enough to beat the crowd. Caught my fair share of awesome rights that allowed me some mighty fine cut-backs and bottom turns.
It was a bit bigger than expected, as nervous tickles within my tummy reminded me of my last session in big stuff...see previous blog pic...despite my pitiful first pitch-off the face, double-over the falls wipe-out, I steeled my nerves and ventured out for more.
Just as quickly as the Ocean had taken my first wave away, it promptly re-gifted me with a handy helping of hearty overhead right...which I rode for all it was worth, instantly re-filling my near-empty stoke-tank.
Many more were had and rode, before the crowds showed up.
Just as quickly as the Ocean had taken my first wave away, it promptly re-gifted me with a handy helping of hearty overhead right...which I rode for all it was worth, instantly re-filling my near-empty stoke-tank.
Many more were had and rode, before the crowds showed up.
NOW THAT.. Looks enjoyable. Glad you got your stoke and then some!
ReplyDeleteAgreed, looks like a fun day.
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