Thursday, August 18, 2011

Surf Sessions #43, 44 and 45

Surf Sessions 43 and 44:

Nothing too great to report with these very tame and lame sessions at the magic NORCAL wave machine spot, as the meager swell size had me dreaming of southern cali and the clean lines of a Bu or Trestle special.

The only thing of merit was my "almost" mishap of getting my truck too close to the water's edge, and having the incoming tide wash it away (see pic above). This occurred during session #44.

I originally planned to stay near the usual spot, but since it was such a small day, and because I can with my 4X4, I decided to take a drive down the beach to check out some of the other peaks. During my little excursion, I found a nice A-frame that had a small shoulder occasionally among it's clustered fucked closeouts. I pulled up and got out to take a closer look...yeah, this will do.

Oh, I forgot to mention that some dude was out in this small shit, doing tow-ins with some gangly looking grom...looked fun, more movement that I was getting!

So, I decide this be the spot and started to suit up, which can take a couple of minutes. While this was going on, I start to wonder if I should move the truck up a bit on the beach...which I do, about 20 feet; call it my stoke luck.

I surf for about an hour and half before the tide kills it. I paddle in and walk up to the truck. Just as I'm getting ready to change out of the wetsuit, my eye catches the high mark location of a set wave that had just come ashore. Then it hits me: If I had left my truck where I had originally parked, I would now be stuck!

I quickly got my ass in gear and got out of there before I became a permanent part of the beach!

Surf Sesssion #45

Nothing to report except the return to my old stomping grounds to some very peaky, multi-forming closeouts, with the occasional bright spot and the appearance of a very rare shoulder.

Here be the pics:


4 comments:

  1. If you ever drift a bit south (Trestle seems a good pick but you'll find a large crowd even before the sun rises...) let me know. It would be cool to plan a Blogger Session with Surfing Grand'ma of The OC ;)

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  2. Forget stalling your car on the freeway, having your truck stuck in the ocean would've been a f***ing catastrophe. You won't do that twice.

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  3. Yes...surfmama. I would enjoy a surf blogger session wit ya and Surfy grams.

    In fact, we should have a sponsored blog surf session with everyone: Mr. Duckbutter, surfsista, Christian from BCB, Whiffleboy, goofykook and many others from SOCAL for whom I know through their surf blogs.

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  4. I love the idea of meeting with lots of blogger friends! Then we could all post about it... It would be so neat to read how everyone would report the same story in their own style ;)
    When are you planning on visiting?

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