Surf Session #39 & #40

Surf Session #39:

Great fun in some seriously uncharacteristically big summer swell. Had a peak to myself, until others saw me catching overhead wave, after overhead wave. I shared the stoke, and everyone had a great time before it all disappeared with the tide.

I caught so many fun waves, but one really stands out:

I had just caught a nice head-high peeler, and was coming off of it when I saw the unmistakable mountain of spray coming off the rock. I knew exactly what was happening, having seen it already several sets previously. A rouge set was quickly approaching and I had to haul ass to get outside before it arrived. The last one through was a six wave set of large proportions that was a pleasant surprise. I looked at my watch to mark the time, knowing that its fellow liquid brethren would soon return.

My timing was perfect. As I saw the first liquid behemoth rise in the distance, I knew I had a chance to pick it up. By the mercy of Mother Ocean, the peak was headed right for my head...I quickly turned my board and began the battle-paddle for glory. My new/old 10'6" Harbor boat/cheater stick has been preforming perfectly of late, and today was no exception.

The board slowly began to rise with the breaking wave, getting steeper and steeper. At the right moment, I jump to my feet and force the board into the face as I speed down and across the high-line of the breaking wave. I step back on the deck of the board and re-direct the board forward and down to clear the section breaking in front of me, just clearing the lip as it explodes behind me. Unfortunately, the next section is closing out as well, so I'm forced to swing my board forward, upon which I throw up a double-Shaka to emphasize my stoke-fueled mind while riding the whitewater further inside. All in all, it was a great day.

Surf Session #40:

Small surf = no waves = limited stoke. Surf buddy Shasara called it small and the cam confirmed nothing happening. Decided to go to the special spot where there is always some form of a wave that can be fun, but crowded on most days.

Surprise, just me Sharsara and her friend Jessica. Many waves caught and the sun shining made for a nice session.

Here be the pics (most are from Session #39):