Hit up the usual spot, after finally seeing a "window of opportunity" for getting myself wet, following a miserable week of too much work, and too much Big surf.
Well, I was hoping to hit up the secret spot, but the buoy was reading over 7' at 12 sec, which translates into potential fun but with a heavy dose of possible life or death moments. Hence, my decision to play it safe and check out the usual spot.
I should of chose the later, because the tide was way too high for the conditions and it turned out to be a session of frustration; with one unexpected moment of do or die activity: my leash broke.
Now, this often happens, and has occurred before...in larger conditions...to me. So, I was prepared for the swim of shame and desperation that would deliver me safely to my bobbing board.
However, swimming in a 5/4 wetsuit, after being out of the water for a week, can be a bit exhausting, especially when the water temp and air temp are freezing! Anyways, made it to the board and proceeded to paddle back out to get 1 more vindication wave to end the session.
30 min later...sweet justice as I rode a sloppy seconds gentle mooshy mound into the shore.
Just a simple question.. how in the world do you move in a 5/4 wetsuit? It is so much work in a 4/3 ;-).. but I guess with your cold water you either deal with it or dont surf. KUDOS!
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