Surf Session #69

Fully knowing that the low, low is in the early evening, and seeing that the buoy was still reading above 6'...I decided to head on out to the usual spot for some twilight action.

However, making this decision will come with the consequence of surfing with a huge crowd of inexperience kooks intermixed with the roid-raging assholes that enjoy playing "wave hogs" amongst the fools that let do so because they can't.

Though I tend to believe in my own abilities to surf around people, having survived many sessions at the 'Bu down south...it's always that one time, that one instance in which someone else does something stupid that makes it dangerous, and no fun at all.

I HATE CROWDS!

Maybe I should preface that statement with my personal philosophy that the Human Race is Fucked! Anytime there's a bunch of us packed into one little tight area, scrabbling and scraping for some kind of reward; whether it be the stoke, some fragments of gold, food for the starving, land for the masses or the latest piece of plastic crap made in China and sold at Walmart...the worst parts of our nature always seem to surface.

So, when what is clearly evident upon the land becomes reality within the water...I tend to try and find another peak that has none of the social peer structure one would find on land, as I would rather commune with nature not man.

Anyways, onto the session...caught some really good rides, weaving and moving around the bobbing bodies. Drop-ins were common, but when preventable...a simple HOOT or push seemed to work just fine.

I had two incursions of the contact kind, where some idiot did something really stupid that resulted in the contact of my board upon theirs or them. The first involved a roid-raging shortboarder that seemed to appear out of nowhere, zipping across my path having caught the wave that I was paddling for on the inside.

Now, I will be the first to admit that I did not check my left before popping up, which I was in the process of doing...and for that I am sorry.

However, the idiot never shouted at me and I never knew he was there because I had started paddling for that wave on the outside, where there was no one to my left...it was only when the wave got to the inside that the roid-rager jumped on it and cut me off.

Now, after this fool cut me off...I started to pull myself out of the wave, but even before I could get the full length of my 10' 6" board out of his way...this dumbass, who seemed to really not give a shit about anyone's safety out there, cut-back in an a-typical surf move to get himself right next to the break. Well, he forgot me and my board which he promptly ran into.

I did what was right and immediately apologized, but fools being fools raged on about his precious ride being ruined. Poor baby. This incident made me sad, so I decided to "self-exile" myself further away from the main break.

The exile lasted for about 30 min. of frustrated non-attempts at catching nothing before I ambled back over to the main break. Fortunately for me, the break had shifted per the outgoing tide and was firing in a totally different location that resulted in some seriously fun rides for me.

The second incident of incursion occurred at this break spot, but this time it was not from any fault of my own.

Another longboarder was to my immediate left, however he was not standing on his board when I took the wave. In my move to cut-back onto the break, I apparently ran into his prone self and board, which I did not even realize until he paddled up to me and said so. I explained to him that if he wanted to share the wave, no problem...just be standing when we do; which happened on the next wave we both paddled for and caught together.

Last wave of the day ended with a wonderful ride all the way in with the sun setting in the background (sorry Kevin). NORCAL is soooo beautiful this time of year.