Surfed the usual spot for a weekday "International
Surfing Day"...very strange that they would hold it on a work-day. Of
course, no problems with the job...seeing that they always encourage me to surf
whenever I can (takes the edge of me...mellowing me out for my work-related
activities and fellow employees).
The spot was pumping, with glassy perfection that generated
fun drops and short shoulders. You had to hit the peak just right to avoid the
inevitable closeout...I decided to play daredevil and set myself up just
outside of the submerged obstacle called "washrock". It was here that
I attempted to thread the needle, catching some really nice waves that took me
dangerously close to the rock. This was far better than trying to navigate the
crowd...which was big given the day.
Water temp was a balmy 45 degrees, with the marine layer
adding an additional shiver factor to the entire session.
Here b the pics:
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