No. 30

The misty wetness of an early morning sesh at the usual spot had me panties all twisted and me tummy in a nervous knot because of the 7+ foot swell and its 13 second interval!

By the time I hit the liquid playground, the fat looking globs of glistening sweetness continued to build as they rolled through at a leisurely pace, leaving many defeated attempts to insert myself because of the amount of water in being pushed quickly towards land.

I patiently waited for the big sets...bypassing the smaller stuff for one of the double overhead drops that would occasionally poke through.

However, while waiting, I got caught inside on a rouge wave (though I was the farthest out) and had to ride the head-high whitewash back to shore before walking back over to the paddle out spot to try again.

Was finally rewarded by the Mother Ocean with a very nice, next to the bubble, ride that took me for a lovely trip deep inside, where once again...I had to go ashore and paddle back out again. 

Had 3 epic rides that involved the process of "running the circuit", but what made it more fun was the ever present marine layer and its ability to block out the encroaching sets.

Because of its thick soupy blanket, the fog did not allow you much wiggle room in deciding when or when not to go...all you could see was the dark face of something approaching in the distance, making you wonder whether it would break in front of you, beside you, or behind you. 

I found myself having to wait until the wave was right upon me before I could decide to pull the trigger, or not..very challenging but fun.

Because of the fog, the pics be limited and blurry: