No. 41:
The usual spot with the Boss Who Surfs and a NORCAL crowd of
lunacy and liquid stoke that permeated
the entire sesh.
Was off for some reason, which was reflected in my entire
mood and surfing abilities. Was upset because of the late arrival, which meant
more heads in the lineup, and the fact that I hadn't surfed in over a week,
which made me too hungry for that cold-water stoke.
Of course, this "attitude" did not translate well,
leaving me very frustrated at myself!
I did manage to catch some nice deep drops and fun
shoulders, but nothing really stood out.
To top it off, I forgot my cam, thus no pics from this lame
sesh.
No. 42:
Oh, what a difference a day makes! Complete Dr. Jekyll and
Mr. Hyde, Night and Day experience with having had the awful sesh on Monday,
only to have a FUCKING AWESOME session today!
The wave smorgasbord was served on a nice plate of glassified
warmth, accompanied by mouthful mounds of liquid frivolity! The best waves were
lefts, which I shot the outer and inner rocks on...that was fun and
challenging, since I'm a regular foot-type of wave wrangler.
Was a lot earlier than the previous morning and that was
good. Had a peak all to myself for the first hour, before it got too crowded.
It was a nice session to have before my SOCAL trip begins
(this Friday). Looking forward to surfing with some SOCAL blogger buddies and
sistas! Will take lots of pics to post.
Oh, I remembered my cam today, though only a couple with
people up and riding. The tide had come up and some of the waves just didn't
break outside like they were when I was out.
Anyways, here b da pics:
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