Wednesday, July 4, 2012

No. 37 & 38

No. 37:

At usual spot after a disappointing drive and look at the secret spot...too small and windblown. However, decided to drive just 15 min north and was surprised to see clean and fun conditions at the usual spot.

Surfed some really fun longboardable peelers that allowed me to practice on my trimming technique. Shared the spot with 5 other dudes and a Suppy...but everyone played nice.

No pics from this session, as the conditions went to crap as soon as I got out...

No. 38:

4th of July early morning sesh at the usual spot again. This time bigger conditions with a crowd.

I was lucky to have got on it early, having myself a "wave smorgasbord" for the first hour before the crowd got thick and heavy.

It was funny to see everyone in their own little packs...clumped together in a social surfing frenzy of sharing the waves...when amongst friends, and dropping in...when competing for the bigger sets.

I set myself up on my own little peak that would produce some nice drops and shoulders to play upon. Surfed it until my shoulder and arms cried out in agony for me to go in.

Here b da pics:

1 comment:

  1. Well those pictures make me want to surf!!! I hope it's just like that At San Elijo in a few weeks :-)

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