After almost getting stuck in the sand at the "Secret
Spot", I headed up North to the usual spot and was pleasantly surprised by
the nice thick mounds of liquid fun falling with a consistent frequency.
The 5' 10 sec NW
swell had a bit of an ego, despite the lame tide conditions, as I found myself
a perfect peak all to my lonesome, but very stoked self.
Was the first one in, but within the hour saw another 11
surfers enter the numbing but sweet conditions. However, they all stayed far
away from my special place, while I caught wave after wave of short, but fun
rides...most of them being 6' faces.
I'm thinking the long-interval ground swell is starting to
make a comeback, seeing that for Saturday there will be a 13 sec interval, with
a 4-5 foot wave range...SWEET!
Here b the pics...taken of everyone who was South of me:
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