Bigger sets, longer interval…but too much water due to the
tides. Despite these facts, made the call to go again, the first back-to-back
sesh for me in a very long time.
Was happy to have the company of surfer Kevin, who was as
disappointed at the lack of breaking waves as I, given the size of the swell
and the long interval. Despite our misgivings, we pulled the trigger and ended
up in the same spot that I had surfed the previous day.
This was fun for the first couple of sets that came through,
as I had a some nice but short rides before getting my ass handed to me by
Mother Ocean on a double-overhead rogue wave set…five waves in total, with each
one becoming bigger than the last!
Had to ditch the board and head for calmer conditions below
the surface, which were really not that calm…I’m thankful my leash held because,
as the next set thundered down in front of me, I pulled my sorry self up onto
the board and road the 6’ wall of whitewash into the shore.
Decided to paddle out again and give it another go, but this
time in an area that provided a safer environment…still caught some nice rides,
though the whole session was more of a test on just surviving the wave. The
ground swell has definitely returned to NORCAL!
Here b da pics:
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