The lame South swell with its 15
second interval was not going to impact my local NORCAL spot, so after driving
and seeing the flatness, I decided to head further north to Crescent City to
see if the only South facing beach, within my driving range, would fare better.
Not so much upon my arrival, with
the low tide working against the swell…everything looked too small and full of
closeouts. Decided to suit up and get wet, hoping that as the tide filled in
the South swell might come a'callin.
Was the only black dot in the
ocean for the first hour and surprisingly caught some nice, but short rides. I
soon figured out that the set wave would appear every 15 minutes, having utilized
my watch to time the swell.
Figured others would soon pick up
on this nugget of information and swarm the spot...did not figure on it being
mostly Suppies and a classroom of kooky kids. Fortunately, they stayed away,
further down the beach.
Highlight of the sesh was me
catching a nice 3' right with an open shoulder that was peaking...had to pump
the 10'6" board to move quickly across the face to make the section,
something that I have not had a lot of practice at doing.
It worked to my own
amazement and some other surfer, who gave me a HOOT as he watched the scene
from in front of me. It was a nice feeling to know that I could get that board
to move, when needed...now comes the practice to perfect it.
Despite the 2 hours of surfing,
the ribs, though a little sore, were just fine.
As promised...here b da pics:
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