Rare afternoon session, amongst beautifully warm and
sunshiny bright conditions…though this would be the first time back in for me, since
a fellow surfer’s unfortunate incident with the Man in the Grey Suit last week.
In fact, found myself not too far from the recent shark
activity due to the conditions being what they were, and the need to get myself
some wetness. I would be lying if I did not mention that my nerves were on
guard for anything within the realm of stoke. Was glad to see one other surfer
out, who was even closer to where the shorty met up with sharky.
Was surprised to discover some seriously phat rolling globs
of liquid numbness, as the long interval was just beginning to fill in. Caught
a handful of fun rides before calling it on a wave that took me all the way in,
having decided to try again in the am…when it will be even bigger.
Here b da pics:
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