The search for surfable stoke began later than normal for me, 10:30 am. The Boss wanted to start later because he had just returned the day before from an East coast trip and needed the extra rest time. We both had decided to take a look at a couple of spots, with a determined hope to find something with a shoulder.
Another surfing friend decided to join us and actually checked out the usual location of our surf before we had a chance. She informed us that it was too small and too crowded. However, when we pulled up to have a look, my mouth began to water...perfect bumps of slowly rolling liquid that, for a long-boarder not a short-boarder, would be much fun.
The Boss is a short-boarder and so is the mutual friend that met us, so I was over-ruled and we started our journey to find something for all of us to surf. First stop was the lagoons, which was last place I surfed and struggled in some serious swell. Despite this, I still had a good time and caught some really nice waves. Today, it would be different. Too big and too fast, at least from my viewpoint. I assured my fellow stoke-mates that they could surf and I'll take pics, because I was'nt feeling it. They felt the same, and so onto the next spot we went.
Just up the road and around the cliff was a more sheltered spot, but the direction of the swell (extreme NW angle) was creating a very strong long-shore current that did not look very inviting to me. Though it was tamer than the previous spot, it still felt too out of control and did not make me feel any more comfortable about going out there as well. So, onto the next spot.
Now, though it may sound like I was being a bit difficult, I know my limits...guess that's why I have managed to live as long as I have: moderation in everything. I'm not young...muscles work and repair themselves at a slower rate, and I really do not need to "prove" anything to myself. Besides, that's what the winter is for...big rolling waves of liquid nutty numbness (check my previous "winter blogs" for the pics). So, today...with its fast and pitchy mush-filled close-out chaos...I decided to just play it safe. I told my two stoke-mates to go ahead and surf it if they wanted, I'll sit it out. Fortunately, they were not feeling it either. We decided to check out one other spot in the area...a location that I had never surfed before.
On to Agate. We quickly pounced upon the road, pulling off and walking a bit through the forest in order to get to the overlook. The sun was shining, but the left look too unforgiving and fast for me. Though I have hiked to this area before, I have never thought of surfing there. The Boss has surfed it in some serious swell, and there's a rip to get you out to the outside with no problems. But the swell was just too exposed and quick.
I think that I would of chose this spot a the same day, size wise...but with at least a 12 sec interval. I will definitely head back to this place if that day happens...though I prefer rights, a good left is fun too. Anyways, it was decided to forgo it for the time being and go back up to the first spot (where we all first met up)...take a look again, and if it was not working for the shorties, they would head back to Agate and I would surf where my mouth watered.
Problem was, the Boss was riding with me. So there would have to be an exchange, with him moving his stuff over to the other friend's vehicle...which we all agreed upon. When we get back to the spot, I'm happy...because I am definitely going in and I'm going leash-less too The friend decides to go to another spot that one of her friends says is going off, while the Boss decides to stay with me, which was cool.
We all had good times, caught many waves and much stoke. Even got myself a nice sunburn! :-)
Here be the pics:
Nice. Glad it worked out!
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