Surf Session #31, #32 and #33

Surf Session #31:

At the main break for the log riders in NORCAL, early in and had it to myself for a bit. Beautiful morning, clear and glassy. Caught my fair share of peaky rights that quickly closed out, but went in leash-less again. Lost the board a couple of times, which resulted in my swim of shame to grab it before it hit the rocks on the shoreline.

The sun was quickly engulfed by a large fog bank, that rolled through at the end on my session, so I was unable to take any pics of this days stoke.

Surf Session #32:

Main break again, but further down towards the spot where the Man in the Grey Suit was last seen by me several years ago. Just myself and one other guy out...he kept his distance which was cool as the peaks were going off all over the place, but mine was a bit more punchy.

Leash-less again, and embarrassed when I saw how the other guy was able to pull out of a wave, by kicking his board over the lip and returning to paddle mode, while I continued to struggle in my lame attempts at ending my rides without losing my board in the wash. I silently cursed the fact that this other guy looked too perfect on his rides, though he seemed to be on a board that was close to 11', which would explain the ease for which he was able to pick up wave after wave. However, I was pleased to see his early exit from the water once his peak got too crowded with Kooky log riders.

Anyways, the pic above was from this day...another beautiful morning in NORCAL with the full moon in full view and glassy goodness to be enjoyed and ridden.

Surf Session #33

Return to the shark spot...this time had it to myself because everyone else wanted a different peak further North of me. The same guy from surf session #32 was out again, looking perfect in everything while I cursed my own inabilities, though I did catch sight of him later attempting to do lip drops, after I had done several earlier…maybe he felt “challenged” by my rude skillz! ;-)

Wore the leash this time because I wanted to challenge myself more, which usually means that I'll be losing the board on a more regular basis because of my many failed attempts to do something gnarly.

Speaking of gnarly things...stabbed one of my fingers on my left hand while cooking some steaks the previous evening and had thought it was good to go for the surf session because the wound looked "closed up". NOT! After about 15 min in the water, I looked down to see a small glob of red liquid leaking from the cut. It wasn't a massive bleed, but it was bleeding...and in a spot that I know whitey likes to occasionally hang out, feeding on whatever happens to be floating and/or bleeding on the surface. I kept wiping the blood away, hoping that its' small amount would dissipate to the point of insignificant harm to myself, while feebly attempting to use my board wax as a make-shift bandage. It finally stopped, and no sightings were made but I taught myself a valuable lesson: salt water make you bleed unless you bandage wound before you go. :-)

I have gotten good at doing drops from the lip as it closes out, and even had a couple of lefts that were perfection. More than anything, I need to practice on my dismounts, as I stay in the wave for too long and end up ditching the board, which is not the "cool" way to end a ride...in my mind.

Another thing that I have been practicing is a knee paddle into a breaking wave. This is fun and challenging too, as the trim of the board needs to be just right or you will either stall out of the wave or pearl as the board enters the breaking face.

Anyways, that's about all for now...Here be the pics: