Today’s session made me feel sorry for my fellow stoke-mates in SOCAL, as today's 10 foot - 8 sec interval session delivered overhead sets that constantly bombarded our coastline and made me envious of the knee-slappers in SOCAL. I can only hope our gift moves southward, bestowing some energy to their bleak summer mush.
I awoke this morning not really knowing if I would take the chance, having viewed the buoy reports that spoke of something big lurking out there in the early morning darkness. This predicament was increased by my inability to view the cam because of the lack of light falling upon the scene. Yet, looking outside I noticed an absence of fog and the twinkling of distant stars, which made me think that it would still be a nice day to catch myself a beating, or some stoke. I quickly moved through my morning surf ritual and headed out.
The spot was roaring, with overhead set after set rolling through as I approached with board in hand. The paddle out was pretty easy, given the low tide and the NW swell direction. I quickly caught an easy wave that lumbered through, most of its energy being expended further South from where I sat. The waves didn't get as big as I thought they might, as I continued to catch shoulder high scraps of the overhead sets I saw booming on the horizon. This was perfectly fine with me, seeing that I really do not like huge conditions, particularly in the summer.
I eventually paddled over to an area that put me in a direct line with some serious double-overhead bone breakers. I caught myself a nicely shaped overhead set wave and rode it until it imploded upon me in a foam ball of confusion and chaos. Thus endith the session.
These pics really don’t do the day justice, but the lack of surfers in the shots shows that it was indeed a crazy big day in NORCAL:
No comments:
Post a Comment