The entire week since the last spectacular session at the secret spot had seen me quietly cursing the swell forecast...too big and too much end of year work to really try and get out.
The forecast finally had some decent news for Friday (5' @12 sec) and I made it a goal to get on it early.
Since separating from the Air Force in the early nineties, waking up early has become a habit of mine...usually up by 5 am, which means I'm a die-hard Dawn Patrol soldier. If I'm lucky, I can get on it before anyone else, though it really never gets that crowded up here, especially when the temps are in the mid-30s!
The above pic is the beautiful welcome I received when I pulled up to my beach side parking spot...first on it and it was indeed firing.
I have swapped out my boards for winter, having decided to mothball the 10' 6" Harbor until next summer.
I'm now riding my "gun shaped" Eric Christenson 10' 6" Pelican model that soars and moves very well on the face. I should of had it for surf session #73 because the Harbor was just a bit too slow to get past the breaking lip...
The direct west swell was pumping and I got myself inserted in some seriously fun rights, all alone with a smile on my face and shiver in me timbers!
NORCAL surfing always involves immersing yourself into something cold, yet when the surface temp is colder than the water temp...you wake up pretty quickly. However, the beauty that is displayed and the stoke that is experience, quickly warms your inner spirit and banishes the cold from your thoughts.
Surfed all by myself for about 30 min, before the Dawn Patrol regulars started showing up...pics below:
WOW what a beautiful way to start a surf sesh! Gorgeous!!! Waves looked super fun too! I can't say anything about the cold. You have it tougher than I.. But last time I went out. I turned purple, the cold wind got me.... But I still didn't want to come in. LOL..
ReplyDeleteBeautiful shots. Merry Christmas Pabs.
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