Surfed the secret spot in very choppy and questionable
conditions. Was happy to find some juicy peaks amongst the wind scattered wreck
that greeted me on a very grey and cold morning.
Had one ride that was a pleasant surprise that identified a
new trim point on the cheater stick...allowing me to quickly swing the big
board around on steep and fast moving shoulders.
A lot of the surf session involved making a drop, then
getting yourself some shoulder before the whole thing collapsed upon
itself...demanding but fun.
The pics are not that great, as my time was limited and my camera
batteries were dying.
However, was surprised to see a shortboarder (2nd pic below) sporting no
booties and bare feet, especially for a liquid playground that has an average temperature of 50 degrees! Now, I go gloveless…but no booties is just ridiculous
and ballsy!
Here b the pics:
very rare indeed to see those blown off conditions at your secret spot...
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