No. 46:
Bigger and Better...A LOT!
Caught it early again, pulling in behind one other guy. Hit
the water with 4' faces of sublime liquid sweetness numbing my hands and face,
while I caught wave after wave...a very nice sesh indeed.
Other guy was not having any luck and left early. I got a
full hour of fun and plenty of stoke. Was surprised to not see more people out,
seeing that the college kids are back. For my SOCAL friends, this would be like
have Trestles all to your lonesome, but a lot colder and foggier.
The chest felt a little sore after, but no incidents of
instability.
No pics from the session...too much fog!
No. 47:
Disappointing slop greeted me, but got wet anyways. Learned
that the home-spot does not work on big swells (6'-7') when the interval is
below 8 seconds...too much water piling up on itself for it to have a
significant break form.
Just myself and the birds, but caught a couple of nice
rides. Ribs still holding together.
Pic above is from this session...a nice mural/memorial for
some dude that surfed NORCAL. No one else out to take pics…maybe this weekend.
reading back your posts when you came back from SoCal, I am so pleased to see that your healing process was faster that you thought (you were saying you might not be able to ever surf again). It is not even september yet and you're already back in the water catching nice end-of-the-summer swells. Go Pabs!
ReplyDeleteYeah...I was all about the gloom and doom when I first injured myself! I guess I was mostly upset about the forced ending of my big SOCAL surf trip, than the actual injury itself. I forgot how a healthy body can heal, and was more worried about a permanent problem, as it really did feel pretty bad for the first 2 weeks...then gradually it got better. The pic that I put on this blog post, a mural that I didn't even know was there, is a good ironic ending to the whole thing. Looking forward now, and I think I just might need to venture south again this winter, like a migrating goose!
Deletecome back south pabs!! we'll be ready for you! glad you're surfing lots
ReplyDelete