OK...being first in the water, very very early in the morning can be a bit intimidating for the first few moments before actually entering the water, as the mind truly enjoys showcasing the occasional flash of the man in the grey suit frolicking just beneath me...well, I suck it up knowing that I would rather be by myself on a great peak, then stuck in the crowd fighting for a few of the less crowded scraps. Besides, if it happens...nothing I can do about it...so into the water I go...all by myself...first in.
Oh, on a side note...there is a ritual I go through before each surf session (I wonder how many of us stoke searchers have similar habits) that prepares me for all of the "possibilities" that may occur while in the water: I always shower, brush teeth and evacuate the bowels before each session...this is more for my own peace of mind (guess if I'm going to be breakfast for mr. sharky, I'm going in clean) and my competitive energy level (I feel bloated and slow when the bowels are still filled). Needless to say, I need to "prep" myself before each session, though it's not for any "social" possibilities that may occur in the water. :-)
Well, the session was a bit disappointing since the NW wind swell was not working and was generating a lot of close-outs and peaky/pitchy waves that produced, for anyone that could catch them, a short ride. Moreover, getting into the set waves was problematic because in this spot, refraction from the waves breaking on other side of the rock wrapped around and threw out any extra water into the oncoming waves, flattening out the front of the breaking wave face and making any attempt to catch them near impossible...which just sucked because almost all of these waves were within the 6-7' range and would of been fun to at least catch, bottom turn and bail before they closed out.
Further down, the waves were pretty heavy with only one guy out (see pics below). However, he was having a similar problem of catching a nice big one. When he did catch something, the drop was nice but the shoulder quickly mushed out and evaporated as quickly as the wave broke.
Anyways, despite the bad conditions, caught my handful of rides and decided to head out...will be going out on Sunday (my birthing day), which is supposed to be a bit smaller than the last two days.
One thing that really got to me while surfing there with you was being completely under water after a wipeout. I felt so vulnerable, rolling along through the water, eyes cold, all in blackness.
ReplyDeleteCreepy.
But think about it...that's what makes it so rewarding for me: You're no longer in TOTAL CONTROL.
ReplyDeleteMoreover, when you surf, you're entering a realm that humans have no control over. An environment that can kill you at any time.
Though we would like to think we know what we're doing when immersed within the stoke-zone, we are in fact mere passengers upon a liquid carpet that can either unfold in glorious beauty, or be pulled out from under you in a surprisingly and humbling wipe-out.
Giving up and allowing yourself to abandon all control, including all of the life shit that we carry into water...is what makes it such a spiritual experience for many of us stoke seekers.
You have to simply allow yourself to "BE" in the moment...that also includes those times when mother water forces us into "going deep"...a metaphor for reaching into ourselves and finding our soul.