Surf Session # 18 - Birthday Sesh

Looking small but clean this morning, with no one else out. Had it to myself for at least 40 min before a couple more joined the fun. No regulating necessary today, as everyone took turns and enjoyed the very easy-going nature of the waves. Even had the company of a baby seal, hanging out on the rocks while he/she enjoyed watching the far-lesser sea creatures try their turn at riding the small stuff.

I had one ride where it all came together...the walk to the nose, backing off...then down to the bottom to make the section, then back atop to catch a nice off the lip maneuver before it all closed out and I was riding foam. Still fun, despite the short rides. The best way to enjoy ones birthing day.

Here's something I posted in response to a comment from a good surfing buddy of mine, it's referring to why I enjoy the "stoke" so much and why I need it so badly in my life, especially when it's good...yes, I'm a stoke-addict, though only in moderation:

But think about it...that's what makes it so rewarding for me: You're no longer in TOTAL CONTROL.

Moreover, when you surf, you're entering a realm that humans have no control over. An environment that can kill you at any time.

Though we would like to think we know what we're doing when immersed within the stoke-zone, we are in fact mere passengers upon a liquid carpet that can either unfold in glorious beauty, or be pulled out from under you in a surprisingly and humbling wipe-out.

Giving up and allowing yourself to abandon all control, including all of the life shit that we carry into water...is what makes it such a spiritual experience for many of us stoke seekers.

You have to simply allow yourself to "BE" in the moment...that also includes those times when mother water forces us into "going deep"...a metaphor for reaching into ourselves and finding our soul.