Surf Session # 14:
Fun in the sun with some seriously nice waves. Started out by the rock and got sick and tired of the crowd and chatty Kathy's...yes, I tend to avoid conversation in the water. I figure I have to spend most of my time "engaged" in social activity, my water-time is MY TIME to devout myself to quieting my mind and giving me a "re-energized" sense of well-being. I wasn't affectionately given the nickname "OneMc-One Man Crowd" for nothing.
Anyways, it was one of those days where everyone seemed to allow everyone their turn, but the peak being what it was...everyone sat too close for my comfort. Seeing another peak, I paddled over to check it out and caught some really nice drops, but hardly anything to ride for long before the section closed-out. Still had a good time. Pics below
Fun in the sun with some seriously nice waves. Started out by the rock and got sick and tired of the crowd and chatty Kathy's...yes, I tend to avoid conversation in the water. I figure I have to spend most of my time "engaged" in social activity, my water-time is MY TIME to devout myself to quieting my mind and giving me a "re-energized" sense of well-being. I wasn't affectionately given the nickname "OneMc-One Man Crowd" for nothing.
Anyways, it was one of those days where everyone seemed to allow everyone their turn, but the peak being what it was...everyone sat too close for my comfort. Seeing another peak, I paddled over to check it out and caught some really nice drops, but hardly anything to ride for long before the section closed-out. Still had a good time. Pics below
Surf Session #15:
Went as early as could go today...had the time off from work in the am (one of the benefits when working for a fellow surfer...I can skip my 1 hr lunch and save up the time for surfing...SWEET), so figured I'd hit it at first light.
Negative low tide created many "close-out" rides, but had it to myself for an hour before 10 other longboarders showed up, creating a traffic jam at 7am! The other peak wasn't working, so I called it early.
Good thing I did because I must of pulled something in my back...getting too old. Anyways, still had some nice rides, including the last ride all the way into the beach. Pics below
Went as early as could go today...had the time off from work in the am (one of the benefits when working for a fellow surfer...I can skip my 1 hr lunch and save up the time for surfing...SWEET), so figured I'd hit it at first light.
Negative low tide created many "close-out" rides, but had it to myself for an hour before 10 other longboarders showed up, creating a traffic jam at 7am! The other peak wasn't working, so I called it early.
Good thing I did because I must of pulled something in my back...getting too old. Anyways, still had some nice rides, including the last ride all the way into the beach. Pics below
Looked cold but fun. :)
ReplyDeleteAt least you got out there! Wish my boss surfed. No one really understands me here at work...HA!
ReplyDeleteTake care of the back. KEEP up on stretching..totally not too old! =)