Memorial Day surf session in some really tough conditions, but still worth the paddle out. Don't let the pics fool you, despite the really nice waves it was all over the place with many of the rides ending as soon as they began.Yet, I was pretty satisfied with what I got, in particular having a peak all to myself. Yep, us NORCAL surfers tend to be a bit on the solitary side...seeing that that's just the way I ride. However, crowds do happen and at my usual spot, it was a crowd of 5 already out...so I took a gander at the spot me and boss had fun at the other day...still peaky and full of close outs, but steep and deep drops with some size...and no one else out there. Easy decision and one that I think will happen more often, now that the bar there is starting to work again.
Another fascinating fact about surfers...like stoke addicts in need of a new hit, they swarm towards those peaks that best display the wonderful possibilities of getting some of that stoke-high that they see I'm presently receiving in full from mother ocean. Anyways, at least they gave me the courtesy of paddling further down the line, or were on shortboards (to small for the kind of waves coming through this particular break).
Here be the pics:
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