Surf forecasting can sometimes throw me, generating an unnecessary unease within my gut, which always translates into morning dumptrucks in the loo. Buoy was reading 11' @ 9 secs, with it coming down to around 8' by 9am. I was leaving the base before daylite to pick up the boss for a very early dawn patrol sesh, so no surf-cam access to see what it was doing (yes...I cheat, but that's our only cam up here, so most of the time it's "down" and inop) because there wouldn't be enough light to see anything.
I had not been in 10' surf since the past winter (see previous posts and pics), so I was a bit apprehensive about it, particularly since the low low was at -1.8 which would make it a very short and pitching situation with the waves. Oh well, not passing up the chance to get wet and I wouldn't be alone, with the boss coming along. Did my morning/pre-surf ritual thingy and loaded up the truck and left the base at 0500am.
On the way out to pic up the boss, my cell phone rings and I soon begin to sense that he was calling to back out (works too much, but is necessary right now). Sure enough, he backs out...I'm halfway there, so FUCK IT.
I'm glad I went. First in again and had to myself for 30 min before the others joined. Not too great, with short rides and smaller conditions than I thought I would have to deal with, but still fun and a good work-out. One thing that sticks out in my mind is the funny reality of the "pack mentality" when it comes to surfing. You know what I'm talkin bout:
1 guy out on a peak, catching some decent stuff...gradually everyone else starts to gravitate closer and closer...until they're right there and competing with you on every wave you paddle for...despite your attempt to let them take the first waves of a set!
Ah.... surf forecast.... I try not to read them as much as I can because they affect my confidence. And most of the time it is smaller that what predicted but I'm still nervous in the line up and wait outside instead of having fun inside.... like if a monster wave (like they forecasted) would come all of the sudden... also they mess up my board choice: I end up with an oversized board in a smaller than predicted swell. Now I take two boards and decide with a visual!
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