Getting shacked by a closeout, while practicing quick stepping to the nose and off-the-lip drops in knee to waist high lameness. Nothing much to report on this session, as well as pics. It was still nice being the first in at first light before the NORCAL pack arrived and made it too crowded for the conditions. Some yahoo started screaming "PARTY WAVE" on every bump he paddled for...KOOK.I'm not really much of a social surfer, forgoing crowds as much as possible. Thus, when the pack started showing up and talking like a bunch of chatty cathy's who would rather socialize then just be...silent, I immediately moved further south out of earshot.
One of the reasons of why I surf is to just sit silent, with my own thoughts slowly falling away as I become more present within the stoke. Likewise, being within Mother Ocean allows me the rare occurrence of being on the "outside" of human interaction (with the exception of other surfers of course) that I encounter daily on land. Therefore, I do not purposely engage others while surfing and can become very annoyed when others start talking about their lame lives on land while in the water. Hence, the reason why I choose to surf alone and early.
Anyways, after catching my fair share of small but short fun at my lone peak, I moved back to the pack to catch one from them and ride it on in...silent and smiling all the way.
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