Redeemer session full of fog and lots of stoke: Made the decision that I was done feeling lame and down, having realized that all reality is chaos. In fact, the only perfection that really exists for me, while drifting amongst all of this imperfection, is within the stoke-zone. Of course, it took me quite a bit of driving to finally settle upon my spot, after deciding earlier that it was not working.Had it to my lonesome self the entire time...and in the fog. Glassy, chest-high sets with a bit of a right shoulder to hang out for a bit before total shut-down. Got some good rides and dedicated a few to my fellow SOCAL surf mates. Though I was alone, I know they're there in spirit.
Anyways, I have decided to keep the stoke going, making more frequent trips to the Mother Liquid than I have been. I have even borrowed a friends board, potential purchase, to try out: single fin 9' 6" pin tail charger with plenty of rock to hopefully give me more momentum potential on these sucky summer wind swept waves.
Yes, I was there Pabs... I can not believe you did not noticed that you dropped in on me on that nice left ;)
ReplyDeleteglad you had fun rides up there. I liked how you sounded today.
Thanks surfmama, I thought that was you...but you took flight as soon as did my bottom turn. ;-)
ReplyDeletePabs I just want to say nothing and give you a :-)!!!!! alnog with a (HUG)
ReplyDeleteThanks Surfy Grams...feeling revitalized, but with the tide being all wrong for early morning sessions right now, I will be sitting out the stoke until this weekend. Hope you're getting your stoke-on too. :-)
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