Surf Session 58:
Caught some nice drops and short rides at the usual spot, early in the morning with just myself and one other "old" guy out. The size wasn't too overwhelming but the wait for a decent wave was...I got lucky with board choice (10'6" Harbor - Paddle Master), snagging most of the decent waves between us.
Surf Session 59:
Secret Spot sweetness. Long Intervals = Big Sets (even for a 3-4 foot day). Same board, and first on it in the morning, with crowd watching to see if it was worth it.
I had originally parked further down the beach from where I normally enter the water, having seen the more predominant SW swell forcing the direction of the sand bar driven breaks.
However, as fate would have it...one of those "Big Sets" exploded near the usual spot.
Seeing the potential of fun surf, I walked down to the usual insertion point and proceeded to have some really great drops and rides. Three more surfers joined me 15 min later.
Last ride of the sesh, had me a nice left, slowly unfolding before me and allowing me to ride it all the way in. Was tempted to head back out, but with the tide coming up, the extra weight was shutting it down.
Surf Session #60:
Same type of fun and place as #58, except bigger conditions. It finally closed down with the rising tide...though by the evening it was 11' at 17 sec!
Pics below are from all 3 sessions:
Second photo up from the bottom - gnarly!
ReplyDeleteThat's right in the same spot we surfed when you were traveling through...except a couple of feet bigger! ;-)
ReplyDelete