Surf Sessions #65, #66 & #67

Surf Session #65:

Nothing to speak about, having hit the usual spot early in the am during the work week with way too much water killing anything coming through. Caught some lame steep drops that closed out as soon as you made your bottom turn.

I guess I was hoping for a repeat of Surf Session #64, which had happened only two days previously, but it was still a nice morning and it felt good to get wet. The pic of the lonely surfer attempting to catch a peak sums up this session.

Surf Session #66:

Same spot, but with more pump and less water. Got to it early, first in with just a hint of the approaching dawn peeking over the mountains. Crisply cold and clear, with the occasional 7' bombs coming through, clearing out the inside.

Caught my fair share of fun drops and great open shoulders to carve upon and practice my trimming abilities. Saw some friendly faces and almost inserted myself into a 10' rogue wave that suddenly appeared unexpectedly, but couldn't get the board to commit to the drop.

Decided to hit the same spot up at the same time the next day...if the conditions stayed the same.

Surf Session #67:

Woke up early and checked the buoy report to see that the size had backed off from the previous day, but the interval had increased. Decided that the secret spot was the best chance of getting some serious stoke. I called it right!

Showed up early, but it quickly got crowded as the place was throwing bombs galore, lefts and rights!

Had my fair share of overhead drops and shoulders a'plenty to carve upon. I got too greedy and was promptly reminded by the wave as I wiped out on my last two waves. Anyways, it was a lot of fun and the weather...absolutely beautiful!

The pics below are in order from Surf Session #65 to 67: