Sunday, October 23, 2011

Surf Sessions #63 and #64

Surf Session #63:

Early morning paddle out at the secret spot in very weak conditions, but some occasional nice outside bombs to drop into before they completely disappeared beneath you.

I mean, you insert yourself into a nice A-frame overhead drop, make the bottom turn to line yourself up for some nice shoulder fun, only to soon discover that the face has morphed into a flat land of empty stoke.

I got one nice ride out of the entire 1 hr and 30 min session, but got to hang with a group of regulars that I know which was cool.

Surf Session #64:

At the usual spot in VERY crowded, but beautiful conditions. A lot of waves to go around, but very minimal takeoff zone. Had to know how to insert yourself into the slot, fighting off anyone who attempted to drop in, while weaving and turning your board around and in between the people on the inside.

Though not the norm in NORCAL, I know how to surf in crowded conditions...having learned how to surf crowds at the 'BU when I used to live in SOCAL while attending UCLA. I got my fair share of rides...but I hate crowds. I would rather ride alone.

Decided to say so long to the crowds and swam down to another spot, where the conditions were still producing some serious fun, but with rides that were shorter. Surf Sista Shasara came out to greet me before moving further down, having found yet another nice break.

Yeah, days like this always bring everyone out...even the Suppies (I saw 3 of them). Besides the crowd, had fun and rode some really nice waves.

Pics below (All from Surf Session #64):

2 comments:

  1. The few times I've been "up north" in search of waves, I have always loved the lines that have poured through that particular spot. Being in an area where crowds are nowhere near as bad though, always leaves me looking for other spots to paddle out.

    Nice photos though.

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  2. WOW! This post.. these pix. are probably the most crowds I have seen you post...Good things you got your So Cal skills. ;-)

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