Surf Sessions #61 & #62

Surf Session #61:

Beautiful morning with the full moon still visible and, for some strange reason, perfect 6' conditions at the usual spot. I say "strange" because this spot has had its sand bar erased from the previous winter's swells, leaving it a bit inconsistent or all over the place. However, for some reason it was going off this morning.

Got there early enough to share it with just 2 other guys out, my friend Chris (whom I have grown to know via my water time following an awkward first meeting...I had to read him the riot act when he attempted to snake me while surfing several months ago) and the infamous SUP dude from surf session #11.

Now if you read my blog post of that session, you will know that I watched this guy preform many instances of snaking and wave hogmanship from the cliff, having left the water prior to his arrival. At that time, I vowed that if this kook ever graced my presence when I was in the water, I would not allow him a similar opportunity without letting him know the concept of how to take turns.

Yet, for some reason he must of felt my vibe because, after telling Chris about him, he seemed to respect the stoke and share the waves. I saw him pass up plenty of fun moving walls for us to play upon and was grateful that he understood...however, as soon as I left, the Suppy returned to his old habits very quickly.

Anyways, had myself a wave smorgasbord and enjoyed it until the incoming tide and wind killed it.

Surf Session #62:

Surfed the secret spot with surf sista Shasara in chaotic conditions that produced some sizable drops, that quickly dissipated and reformed into close-out conditions the longer you pumped to stay in the wave.

I caught some really nice drops and managed to ride them towards the inside, jumping and pumping myself into the inside sections. Got to practice my ability to insert a 10'6" board into a steep drop and closeout. Pearled the first time, but pulled it off on the second attempt.

The afternoon started out sunny and warm, but the oncoming marine layer increased the chill and grayness of the entire session. Had fun with Shasara and was glad we could share some waves with each other.

All pics are from Sesh #61. The first pic is a proof of a “snake” by a surfer taking off after the dude behind her was already up and running…she eventually backed off, but with the “limited” crowd it was still sad to see it going down. She must be a SOCAL transplant! :-p