Came across this nice little video of some sick-ass slo-mo of Teahupoo walls-o-water and carnage from Surfsitas blog site and thought it would fit nicely into my current state of mind and blog, having recently had a my own crazy episode of kissing liquid.Big difference between between what these guys endured and what I felt, but can still sympathize...though I wear a full 5/4 wetsuit, paddle into the shit myself, and do not have a friend waiting patiently on a jet ski to see if I make it or not.
Yep, I'm a back to nature kind of surfer, who relies upon his own skills (and lack thereof) to insert him into some serious NORCAL shit!
Yep! Those big waves riders have some balls but not as big as my hero, Jeff Clarck, who surfed Maverick by himself for 20 years.
ReplyDeleteYep...I tend to favor the "Maverick" route in life too.
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