2012 - The First

Ok...let's try this again. Sorry for the previously fucked up posting of same title...operator error and too many beers...

Well, with the swell forecast finally backing down from where its been for the past week...I figured it would be good for me to head on out to the secret spot for some early morning stoke.

Thinking that most of the regulars would be home, sleeping off their New Years Eve hangovers, I looked to be in the liquid zone by dawn's early light. With the buoy reading just over 6' at 12 sec, it was looking really good.

Pulled up and soon discovered that the regulars were already on it...the outside sets were looking pretty big and nasty, with some serious off-shore spray being thrown up by each breaking face.

All of sudden, I felt a bit out of place and filled with nervous dread...though I have surfed this spot on other days, in similar conditions...I couldn't shake the feeling. I think what made it worse was the fact that the waves were breaking pretty far out, which always means that the current has to be respected or you could end up on your way to China!

Well, made it to the lineup and promptly scratched out of my first two waves...as Mother Ocean drove me down and all around for my errors.

Sucked it up and quickly recovered to grab a couple of nice overhead drops and shoulders to carve upon.

Got cocky and tried for one wave too many and paid the price:

With a perfect set wave headed my way, I began paddling for it as the other surfers cheer me on...I begin to feel the lift of the peak but make the mistake of not sticking my rail into the face before the lip throws the tail of my board vertical, sending me straight down to Davy Jones' locker for a brief visit! I'm still seeing saltwater drip out of my nose for that kook move.

Anyways, despite the disappointments, had a great time...enjoyed the stoke and beautiful weather!