For Mother's Day, I surfed the Secret spot at first light (in honor of me Mum)...just me and 2 other guys out
for 30 min before others started arriving. Experienced some strong side winds that were making
it pretty difficult to get inserted...but the cheater stick has its ways. Was
catching all of the stoke between myself and the others.
I find that understanding the wave's characteristics: like
timing, set direction, set numbers, peak locations and tides all play into
being able to know what to look for on the horizon before anyone else can. It's
a nice advantage to have when the surf is filled with other desperate minds in
search of some stoke-inspired relief.
Though you always eventually "draw flies", it makes me feel good that others respect my wave judgement.
Caught some nice rides, and had a few nice wipeouts as well.
It was fun, but...CHILLY!
Wanted to take some decent pics of others surfing, but by
the time I got out, everyone else did too, leaving only one lonely soul to
continue seeking some stoke.
Here b the pics:
It's nice to get a spot somewhat dialed in, or at least to be more dialed in than the other people happen to be at the time. Rare, but nice.
ReplyDeleteYeah...it is nice, but I know I would do the same thing if I surfed anywhere else...follow the leader. Though I would eventually break off to find my own peak to play upon, being that I do enjoy my own crowd. ;-)
Deletei have to be honest, your spots are kinda "creepy" in that sharky way. I don't think i could ever relax out there.
ReplyDeleteYep..."sharky" b the operative word, having had my own personal encounter with the beast in the past. Though they tend to b only around in the late summer/early fall, when the salmon is running.
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