Surfed the secret spot in the early dawn...arrived late
because there were already 5 on it by the time I reached the peak.
SW swell was the dominant wave of the day, with a 16 sec
interval! Despite the meager size, the interval helped to pump up the waves,
bestowing a roid-induced monster sets of 4 foot bliss.
Caught some really nice and long lefts and rights, as the
crowd dwindled down...had to call it to get to work. Nice to have had the
opportunity to surf with Chris, a fellow longboarding liquid warrior.
Here b the pics:
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