Surfed the usual spot with the "Boss who Surfs" at first light.
Not as big as the day previous, but a lot of fun for me and my lovely longboard. Had some nice attempts at walking it to the nose in the whole 2 hours that I was out.
I am now paying the price of my excessive stoke addiction, as now both my shoulders ache with the soreness of old age and the possible return of my impingement injury on my right shoulder. I think the cortisone shot has finally worn off, though I am definitely not as sore as I have been in the past.
With the swell size coming down next week, I'm gonna take a couple days off to heal and then hit it again before another large storm swell hits NORCAL.
There are not many surf pics this time...did not have enough post-surf time to take many, though there wasn't really any hardcore action happening because of the small size.
Here b the pics:
Size looks perfect for me..;-)
ReplyDeleteYou would of had a blast...easy walk out to the break. But, you would have to get used to how cold it can get! :-)
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